Expert Tips How To Change Oil Filter Yourself Save Money

Changing your own oil filter is a straightforward, money-saving DIY task that empowers car owners. This guide offers expert tips, detailing every step from safely removing the old filter to correctly installing a new one. Master this essential maintenance and keep your engine performing optimally while significantly cutting service expenses.

Hey there, fellow car enthusiast (or soon-to-be enthusiast)! Let’s be honest, car maintenance can sometimes feel like a mysterious, expensive dance. Every time that “check engine” light blinks, or you hear an odd squeak, a small part of your wallet shivers. But what if I told you there are some routine tasks that are not only straightforward but can save you a significant chunk of change and give you a real sense of accomplishment? Today, we’re going to tackle one of those essential jobs: learning how to change oil filter yourself.

I remember the first time I considered changing my own oil and filter. It felt like trying to defuse a bomb with a butter knife – intimidating, messy, and potentially disastrous. But after watching a few videos, gathering my courage, and making a few minor mistakes (which we’ll help you avoid!), I realized it’s a perfectly manageable task for most DIYers. Plus, there’s a quiet satisfaction in knowing you’ve taken care of your car with your own two hands. It’s empowering, and frankly, a bit of a money-saver in the long run.

So, whether you’re looking to cut down on garage bills, get a deeper understanding of your vehicle, or just enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done, this post is for you. We’ll walk through everything you need to know about how to change oil filter safely and effectively. Get ready to roll up your sleeves – metaphorically, for now!

Key Takeaways

• Prioritize safety: Always use jack stands and wear protective gear.
• Gather supplies: Have new oil, filter, wrench, and drain pan ready.
• Drain old oil: Completely empty the crankcase before filter removal.
• Lubricate gasket: Apply fresh oil to the new filter’s rubber seal.
• Hand-tighten filter: Secure the new filter firmly by hand, then a quarter turn.
• Inspect for leaks: Run the engine briefly and check for any drips.
• Dispose responsibly: Recycle old oil and filter at an authorized center.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

How often should I change my oil filter?

Generally, it’s a smart move to change your oil filter every time you change your engine oil, typically every 3,000 to 5,000 miles or as recommended by your car’s manufacturer. This ensures continuous, optimal engine protection!

What tools do I need to change an oil filter?

You’ll primarily need an oil filter wrench (either a cap-style or band-style), a drain pan, and a new oil filter specific to your vehicle. Don’t forget some gloves and safety glasses when you get ready to change oil filter!

Do I need to drain the oil before I change the oil filter?

Yes, it’s highly recommended to drain all the old engine oil first. This prevents a big mess when you remove the old filter and prepares your engine for fresh, clean oil and a new filter.

How tight should I make the new oil filter?

Hand-tighten the new oil filter until it’s snug, then give it an additional quarter to half-turn with your oil filter wrench. Over-tightening can damage the seal and make it incredibly difficult to remove next time you change oil filter.

What should I do with the old oil and filter?

Always dispose of used engine oil and your old oil filter responsibly at an automotive parts store, service station, or local recycling center. Never pour them down a drain or throw them in the trash – it’s crucial for the environment!

Why Bother Changing Your Own Oil Filter? The Benefits Are Clear!

You might be thinking, “Why go through the hassle when I can just take it to the shop?” That’s a fair question! But once you understand the advantages, you might just find yourself reaching for that wrench.

Save Money, Seriously!

Let’s talk numbers. A professional oil change, including a new filter, can range anywhere from $50 to $100 or even more, depending on your vehicle and the type of oil. When you learn how to change oil filter yourself, you’re essentially paying for the oil and the filter – which often comes out to half the cost, if not less. Over the lifespan of your vehicle, those savings really add up. Think of it as extra cash for that weekend getaway or a fancy dinner!

Get to Know Your Car Better

There’s a special bond that forms when you get a little grease under your fingernails. Understanding the basic mechanics, like where your oil filter is located or what your oil pan looks like, demystifies your car. This knowledge can also help you identify other potential issues earlier, possibly saving you from more costly repairs down the line. Plus, it just feels good to be self-sufficient and capable.

Quality Control in Your Hands

When you’re doing the work, you get to choose the parts. You can opt for a premium oil filter and the exact type of engine oil recommended by your car’s manufacturer, ensuring your engine gets the best possible care. You’re in charge of the quality of work, taking your time and ensuring everything is done correctly, rather than a rushed job at a busy service center.

Gathering Your Arsenal: What You’ll Need to Change Your Oil Filter

Preparation is key to a smooth and successful oil filter change. Before you even think about crawling under your car, make sure you have everything laid out. This will prevent frustrating trips to the store mid-job.

Essential Tools

• Wrench Set: You’ll need an appropriately sized wrench or socket to remove your oil drain plug. Check your car’s manual or do a quick online search to find out the size.
• Oil Filter Wrench: This is crucial. Oil filters can be incredibly tight. There are various types (cup, strap, claw), so get one that fits your specific filter. A “cup” style that fits over the end of the filter is often the cleanest option.
• Drain Pan: A wide, low-profile pan with at least a 6-quart capacity is ideal for catching all the old oil.
• Funnel: Essential for pouring new oil without making a huge mess.
• Gloves: Nitrile or latex gloves will keep your hands clean and protected.
• Jack and Jack Stands: Absolutely non-negotiable for safety if you need to lift your car. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
• Wheel Chocks: To prevent the car from rolling.

The Right Supplies

• New Oil Filter: This is a big one. Ensure it’s the correct filter for your specific make, model, and year. OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) filters are always a safe bet, but reputable aftermarket brands are also good. When learning how to change oil filter, getting the right one is step one.
• Fresh Engine Oil: Consult your owner’s manual for the correct type, viscosity, and amount of oil your engine requires.
• Shop Rags or Paper Towels: You will make a mess. Embrace it, but be prepared.
• Optional: New Drain Plug Washer/Gasket: Many manufacturers recommend replacing this small crush washer every time you change the oil. It helps prevent leaks.

Here’s a quick overview of some essential items:

Tool/Supply	Purpose	Pro Tip
Oil Filter Wrench	Loosening stubborn oil filters	Match the wrench type to your filter (cup, strap, or claw).
Oil Drain Pan	Collecting old engine oil	Choose a wide, low-profile pan with at least 6-quart capacity.
Jack & Jack Stands	Safely lifting the vehicle	ALWAYS use jack stands; never work under a car supported by a jack alone.
New Oil Filter	Replacing the old, dirty filter	Double-check your car’s manual for the exact part number.
Engine Oil	Refilling with fresh lubricant	Ensure you use the correct viscosity and type as specified by your manufacturer.

Safety First! Preparing Your Vehicle and Workspace

Before any wrenching begins, let’s talk safety. This isn’t just a suggestion; it’s a golden rule for car maintenance. Your well-being is paramount.

Parking and Positioning

Always work on a flat, level surface. Engage your parking brake. It’s usually best to change your oil when the engine is warm, but not scalding hot. Warm oil drains more easily, but you don’t want to burn yourself. Let it cool for about 15-20 minutes after driving.

Lifting Your Car Safely

If you need extra clearance, use your jack to lift the front of the car. Locate the designated jack points (check your owner’s manual). Once lifted, immediately place jack stands under sturdy frame points near the jack points. Gently lower the car onto the jack stands. Give the car a little shake to ensure it’s stable before you ever think about getting underneath it. Chock the rear wheels for extra security.

Personal Protection

Wear those gloves! Not only do they keep your hands clean, but they also protect against hot oil and chemicals. Safety glasses are also a good idea to protect your eyes from drips or debris.

The Step-by-Step Guide: How to Change Oil Filter Like a Pro

Alright, you’re prepared, you’re safe, and you’re ready to tackle this! Follow these steps closely, and you’ll be successfully done in no time.

Draining the Old Oil

1. Slide your drain pan under the oil drain plug, usually located at the lowest point of your oil pan.
2. Using your wrench, carefully loosen and remove the drain plug. Be ready for the oil to come gushing out! It will be hot and black.
3. Let the oil drain completely. This can take 10-15 minutes. While it’s draining, you can move on to the next step.

Removing the Old Oil Filter

While the oil is draining from the pan, locate your oil filter. It’s usually a canister-shaped component. Place your drain pan directly under it, as more oil will come out. This is where your oil filter wrench comes in handy. Attach the wrench and turn counter-clockwise to loosen the filter. Be prepared for another small gush of oil as it separates from the engine. Once loose, you can often unscrew it by hand. Let it drain into the pan. My first time learning how to change oil filter, I underestimated the amount of oil in the filter; learn from my initial mess!

Preparing and Installing the New Oil Filter

1. Take your new oil filter. Dip your finger in some fresh engine oil and lightly coat the rubber gasket on the new filter. This helps create a good seal and makes future removal easier.
2. Screw the new filter on by hand. Once the gasket makes contact with the engine, tighten it an additional three-quarters to one full turn, or as specified by the filter manufacturer (usually printed on the filter itself). Do not overtighten with a wrench! Hand-tightening is almost always sufficient. Overtightening can damage the filter or its housing, leading to leaks.

Replacing the Drain Plug

Once all the old oil has drained, replace your drain plug. If your car uses a crush washer, now is the time to put on the new one. Hand-tighten the plug first, then use your wrench to tighten it snugly, but don’t overtighten it. You don’t want to strip the threads on your oil pan.

The Grand Finale: Refilling Oil and Final Checks

You’re almost there! The engine now has a clean filter and an empty stomach, ready for some fresh lubricant.

Adding Fresh Oil

1. Lower your car safely off the jack stands.
2. Open your car’s hood and locate the oil fill cap (it usually has an oil can symbol on it).
3. Place your funnel into the oil fill opening.
4. Carefully pour in the correct amount and type of new engine oil as specified in your owner’s manual. Be patient, pour slowly to avoid spills.
5. Replace the oil fill cap.

Initial Start-Up and Leak Check

Start your engine and let it run for about 30 seconds to a minute. Listen for any unusual noises. The oil pressure light on your dashboard should turn off within a few seconds. While the engine is running, quickly check under the car for any leaks around the new oil filter and the drain plug. If you see drips, turn off the engine and investigate. Usually, it means the filter or drain plug isn’t tight enough, or the old filter gasket stuck to the engine block.

Final Oil Level Check

Turn off the engine and let it sit for a few minutes (5-10 minutes is usually good) to allow the new oil to settle in the pan. Pull out your dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it fully, and then pull it out again. Check the oil level. It should be between the “min” and “max” marks. If it’s low, add a small amount of oil at a time, rechecking each time, until it’s at the correct level. Don’t overfill!

Finally, remember to properly dispose of your old oil and filter. Most auto parts stores and many service stations will accept used oil for recycling.

Common Pitfalls and Troubleshooting When You Change Oil Filter

Even with expert tips, things can sometimes go awry. Here are a few common issues and how to handle them when you learn how to change oil filter.

Filter Stuck Tight?

Sometimes, an old filter is on there like glue. Make sure you’re using the correct type of filter wrench and apply steady, firm pressure. If it’s really stubborn, a claw-type wrench can offer more grip, or sometimes a larger strap wrench provides more leverage. Just be careful not to crush the filter, which can make it even harder to remove.

Leaks After Installation?

The most common cause of leaks after changing the oil filter is a missing or improperly seated gasket. Always double-check that the old filter’s rubber gasket didn’t stick to the engine block when you removed it. If it did, remove it before installing the new filter. Also, ensure the new filter’s gasket was lightly oiled and the filter was tightened correctly (hand-tight plus 3/4 to 1 turn).

Choosing the Wrong Filter

Using the wrong size or type of filter can lead to leaks, poor filtration, or even engine damage. Always verify the part number from your owner’s manual or a reputable parts lookup tool. When you plan to change oil filter, getting the right one is critical.

Learning how to change oil filter and your engine oil yourself is a rewarding experience. It’s a skill that saves you money, empowers you with knowledge, and builds confidence in your ability to care for your vehicle.

So, there you have it! A comprehensive guide on how to change oil filter yourself. It might seem daunting at first, but with the right tools, a bit of patience, and these expert tips, you’ll be a pro in no time. You’ll not only keep your engine running smoothly but also gain that invaluable satisfaction of doing it yourself. Go ahead, give it a try – your car (and your wallet) will thank you!

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I change my oil filter?

Typically, it’s recommended to change your oil filter every time you change your engine oil, which is usually every 3,000 to 7,500 miles, or as specified in your vehicle’s owner’s manual. A fresh oil filter ensures your new oil stays clean and performs optimally.

What tools do I need to change an oil filter?

You’ll typically need a wrench (or socket set) for the drain plug, an oil filter wrench (strap-style or cap-style), a drain pan, new engine oil, and your new oil filter. Safety gear like gloves and eye protection are also highly recommended.

Where is the oil filter located on my car?

The location of the oil filter varies significantly by vehicle make and model. It can often be found on the side, front, or bottom of the engine block. Consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual or an online diagram specific to your car for its exact placement.

Should I pre-fill my new oil filter before installing it?

While not strictly necessary for all vehicles, pre-filling a new oil filter with fresh oil can help reduce the amount of time the engine runs without proper oil pressure immediately after starting. Always apply a thin film of clean oil to the new filter’s rubber gasket before threading it on.

My old oil filter is stuck; how can I remove it?

A stubborn oil filter can be frustrating. Try using a sturdy oil filter wrench that fits snugly, ensuring you’re turning it counter-clockwise. If it’s extremely tight, sometimes a specialized “jaw-style” wrench or a filter piercing tool (as a last resort) can provide extra grip.

Do I need to drain the old oil before changing the oil filter?

Yes, it is crucial to drain the old engine oil completely before attempting to remove the oil filter. The oil filter typically contains some residual oil that will spill when removed, and draining the main oil supply first makes the entire process cleaner and more effective.